With more than ten miles of broad Atlantic beach, a boisterous boardwalk amusement park and hundreds of thousands of visitors every weekend, OCEAN CITY is Maryland's number one summer resort. No matter how you get here - up or down the coastal highway or across the rural eastern shore along US-50 - its tower-block hotels and massive overcrowding will come as a shock; it is so overgrown, in fact, that its northern reaches now encroach into Delaware. If you're after a quiet weekend by the sea, avoid it like the plague, and take extra care to avoid college vacations.

Ocean City might be good for a day out, or even a long weekend, but it's hard to imagine anyone wanting to stay very long. It is, at least, easy to reach: Carolina Trailways buses from DC end up in the southern end of town at Second Street and Hwy-1 (tel 410/289-9307). The visitor center , at 4001 Coastal Highway (daily 9am-5pm; tel 410/289-2800 or 1-800/626-2326, ), has the usual brochures and can help with accommodation. Places to stay are plentiful except on summer weekends, and off-season rates are at least half prime-time ones, but pleasant accommodation is rare indeed. For bargains, check out . The Summer Place , a privately-run hostel near the bus station and boardwalk at 104 Dorchester St (April-Oct; tel 410/289-4542; $35-50), rents rooms at a flat rate of $20 per person and does not accept reservations; if you're unlucky there, and want a motel in the same area, try the Oceanic on the tip of the peninsula at the south end of Baltimore Street (tel 410/289-6498; $50-75). The bright and breezy Nassau Motel further up at 60th and Oceanfront (tel 410/524-6451, ; $75-100) has reasonable rates. Other alternatives range from the faded seaside grandeur of the Commander Hotel , on the boardwalk at 14th Street (tel 410/289-6166 or 1-888/289-6166, ; $100-130), to the gleaming marble and glass of the Coconut Malorie , at 60th Street and The Bay (tel 410/723-6100 or 1-800/767-6060, ; $160-200). The only campsite is at Ocean City Campground , 105 70th St (tel 410/524-7601, ).

Dominated by the boardwalk fast-food joints and the national franchises along Hwy-1 (there are no less than three all-night McDonald's ), Ocean City has few good eating options. The Angler Restaurant , on the bay at Talbot Street (tel 410/289-7424), has fresh seafood and an all-you-can-eat salad bar; it also offers nice beers, wild tropical cocktails and nightly live bands. Nightspots include the frenetic Big Kahuna Surf Club , 18th and Hwy-1 (tel 410/289-6331), and Shenanigan's , 4th and Boardwalk (tel 410/289-7181), which has a full menu and live music until 2am. Pick up the free Ocean City Today to find out what's on.